The Netherlands has always had its tailors. The quality brand Corneliani has been well represented within our confines for the last quarter of this century. Hugo Boss has thought us that jackets are subject to fashion. This did not give significant results for those men that would usually wear their compulsory dark bleu suit. Nevertheless men dressed remarkably well have brought the change into action. Not extremely fashionable but simply foreseen of a stylish suit which follows the contours of the body. A suit that corrects the body where necessary without being overly loose fitting or gluey. We owe this to the interest for the rather explosive quantity of luxury labels available nowadays - which quality is notable - and the many, new variations on the old made-to-measure clothing principle.
These luxury labels, preferably of Italian origin and therefore often ending with a 'I' or 'A' (except from the very luxurious Kiton, which is a rare Neapolitan bastardization of the Ancient Greek dress: chiton), discover at their turn the North European market and adjust their distribution, measurement systems and communications.
At fashion store Pauw they have come to realize that more money is spent on hand-made suits these days. Established names in the world of suits such as Brioni, Kiton and Attolini - originally from Rome and Naples - can no longer be left out of consideration at Pauw. They consider these designers artists that have their personal style. The finest fabrics can be processed to a perfect fitting made-to-measure suit. Pauw employee Raymond Kleine Koerkamp believes the exceptional thing about such a suit is that the form survives the suit. The designs are forever kept on paper and the soul of the tailor is to be found in the last thread. 'The most important thing remains that you buy something to your satisfaction and you in fact enjoy', says Koerkamp. It takes from six to eight weeks before you can actually wear the suit. A suit costs between five to six and a half thousand guilders.
The statement which says you can put on any gunny sack when being young and sporty is momentarily being argued against by the sophisticated fashion image with a clear preference for a natural (preferably slender) body contour. All right, you might still have a brisk look but your athletic body structure is nowhere to be found when wearing a baggy suit. You might easily give people and old-fashioned impression. Take the young members of the Royal Family for instance: often 'dressed up' as old men in overly loose fitting suit (whilst grandfather Bernhard would never cut back on a good cut made-to-measure suit). The not so young man transforms himself more rapidly to poor devil if he bans style and/or quality from his suit. Aspect, which are always visible in the mirror with a cheap suit. Lapel and jacket flap somehow give a good expression due to the strengthening glue work. Try wearing such a suit a couple of times, bring it to the cleaner or look at yourself (preferably before buying it) through multiple mirrors or video image. From aside or behind cheap suits are exactly worth what the price tag says.
Almost every night, television spectators are treated to this barely inexpensive phenomenon. Weather forecasters wearing poor quality suits. As long as they look you in the eyes everything seems to be just fine: the minute they turn their back to you to point out a small depression in the North, visual tribulation is outlined. Gentleman in suit becomes man in bag!
At the more luxurious brands there is more choice in various drops. Without making it too complicated: the drop is the proportion measurement, which indicates whether the body of the suit is being tailored to wider or slimmer. It's nice to know you have drop 6, but this is often related to one brand only. Measurement indication in ready-to-wear clothes has not been optimally standardized. More important is the variation possibility: a good suit is never too wide or too tight. For thick and thin, for short and long and especially for the stature that combines less cheerful contrasts (narrow shoulders and considerable ass), a good cut made-to-measure suit is the most representative wrapping. For those who found this thesis with the purchase of a fine suit there are two, let's say three options:
Option one: From the rack you choose a suit of which the strengthening at the front side has not or hardly been glued together. This means that the shaping horsehair and other inserted linings have been mechanically (or in extreme expensive cases with complementary handwork) pasted together with ultra small stitches to the exterior (often well noticeable at the rear side of the lapel, the so called tick off work which is outlined in the relief of minor openings). The beauty of these non-glued suits: they mould to the body when wearing it. They fit better and survive a considerable dry-clean session.
Option two: a made-to-measure suit. This can be done through the modern scanning method, the semi made-to-measure work. The measurements are taken on the basis of a standard try-on jacket/trousers in the store. Measurements, choice of fabrics and eventual preferences or alterations (rather no vent in the rear but two on the side?) are being passed on to the tailor, preferably located somewhere in the Alps. The client gets a personal suit according to label and possibilities. The strengthening of this made-to-measure suit can be glued and therefore be inferior to the third option.
In these modern times the computer plays an important role. One thing we cannot deny since the Internet revolution. Someone who wants to anticipate on this and intends to fuse with the new economy is Bas Possen. The thirty years old founder of the www.possen.com site launched the DigiTwin system in the summer of 2000: a fitting-room in which a scan of the body is made, and in which the measurements are registered into the computer. This makes it possible to make (pasted together) suits according to own demands and wishes. 'People like to see and feel clothing, because fashion is an emotion. Selling clothes solely through the Internet does not work', says Possen. That is why it is possible to choose a material in the "fashion rooms" - his stores, where the DigiTwin stands - based upon samples from well-known brands like Zegna, Cerruti and Dormeuil. Matters such as lining and pleated front will be reviewed. The suit will be ready within' three weeks.
Perfectly made-to-measure according to the personal, unique wishes of the client. But that is not all. The saved data can also be used for the 'personalized' page, which you can find on the Possen website. On this page you will find yourself as a spiritual tailor's dummy on which all kind of designs, fabrics, patterns can be tried on. You can click on your preferences to be measured for a new suit. 'The most important thing remains that the client is able to actually feel the fabric and to try on a try-on suit in our stores. The see, feel and try experience remains essential', according to the young entrepreneur. The prices vary from eight hundred to two thousand guilders. More information can be found on the www.possen.com website.
The fashion designer: a completely made-to-measure, if possible hand-made, suit. Tailor Hekster uses fabrics in which 22 carat gold thread has been processed. Unfortunately only available for a few of us. 'I have been making (with heart and soul) made-to-measure suits for my clients for the last fifty years. My clients live all over the world. The strength of my business is being expressed in a suit, that gives me satisfaction', Hekster tells us. The most exclusive fabrics such as cashmere or vicuña (chest hair form the Peruvian llama) from Scabal, Holland & Sherry and Zegna are cut in the atelier. If you want to show off with your own name on your suit you just have to mention the word. The making of a made-to-measure suit cannot be done in one day, also due to the try-on sessions. You need to come back to his atelier only twice: Tailors Trend, Koninginneweg, Amsterdam. Expect to wait for six to eight weeks, which is normal. A suit might cost you from three to twenty thousand guilders. You will have something unique and made by a skilled professional, something which is rare these days in the Netherlands. One thing is for sure: the minute Hekster decides to stop, many clients will miss him incredibly much!
Even Fashion designer want to go back to when we used to call upon the highest personal tailor. The Belgian designer believes in the comeback of the tailor feeling. Helsen: 'I do believe that more and more people turn their back to mass consumption in the world of fashion. Everybody the same, there is no fun about it?' It's all about personality. Creativity and the three F's: Fabric, Fitting and Form are the subject matter of his collections. To this he has now added color and contrast. That is quite obvious. New are for example the "funky" linings of the costumes in candy colors. Helsen wants to go back to personal collections. 'Just think of the great feeling it gives you: a garment with personality, put together especially for you. It's a little bit like an architect that designs a house which goes perfectly along with your life style.' Within the luxury sector, non-glued suits and made-to-measure suits it is custom to measure the qualities of a certain brand to imperfections or so-called exaggerated luxury of other brands. Every salesman has his own preferences and convinces the client by saying that suit x... (which of course ends with the 'A' or 'I') is not a Kiton, but is just about the same. Just a little more modern, sir!
Sleeve buttons that can be opened, splendidly set-in buttons, buttons sewed by hand. Feel how supple, how thin, how solid, how… something you will not find with...
The jargon van de grand cru wine salesman is not inferior. Even experienced fashion connoisseurs feel confounded by the way of recommending: 'Yes, but with that jacket the facing runs through the lower part. It has been set-in by hand, he!'
You might as well consent because much of the valuable technique and recommended qualities hide behind the woolen fabric on the outside of the lining.
Kinnesinne can play a role when selling. Not every store manages to obtain a wide selection of top brands. The distribution is selective and its qualitatively weaker brother automatically substitutes the brand that may not be sold.
Comfort for the client: even though the working methods of luxury labels range and some offer more features than others (look, authentic kissing buttons, the buttons on the sleeve are put together!), bad products are not sold within the high genre. The motto sounds: Invest in reliability. That means that the relationship with the store manager is not likely to be tested with the supply of inferior goods. And that is translated into: a good shopkeeper likes to see a satisfied customer come again.
Very clever of Canali to invite us and a group of fashion suppliers to come see the manufacturing process in Sovico Northern Italy. He would show us how well, clean and with utmost care the luxury suits are being made. The various lineations (and matching drops) - varying from classic to fashionable - showed that Canali can handle a great deal of men (the other way round too). Canali has besides his domestic market more influence in the USA and is loved as business suit. Recently the expansion has been aimed at The Netherlands. To the satisfaction of agent and resellers. The care with which the Canali product is accomplished, is being followed. Accuracy is their professional secrecy: from preserving and reading the fabrics on eventual irregularities, the cutting to elegantly ticking off the lapel (the lapel and the rounding reveal the technique with which they have been put together just like the perfect collar and shoulder line say much about the value of the suit). To give and maintain the optimal form of the fabric, even the temperature of the export depot has been adjusted.
Behind the charming name Sartoria d'Alessandro (Nieuwe Rijn 35, Leiden) stands professional skills of the Dutchman Mans who is obviously related to the Italian brand Nervesa. It has been years since he's worn shiny suits yet he knots his necktie shortly, like stylish Italians attempt to do. He lends a hand to men who have the most diverge measurements in his cozy, somewhat messy shop to find the perfect Nervesa suit. His work and the clothing are a conclusion of his passion for Italy, the Italian taste and the preference for technique. He is able to clarify all distinctive, sometimes very small characteristics of the Nervesa suit. Referring to the offer or the slim suit (partially without lining) to the own body. To a somewhat stuffed upper flap pocket of the jacket or the non-economic cutting method which give the front side of the jacket a three dimensional aspect. Some of the things that have to be said. At d'Alessandro the average man can directly take its suits from the racks. Small changes are quickly provided, but for those who diverge or have very personal demands, the measurements will accurately be taken and the sample book will be consulted. After a period of eight weeks the suit will be as desired: put together by the workshops in Italy. The approximate costs are two thousand and four hundred guilders. 'I have a client who is two meters and fifteen centimeters long. He is really huge, internationally orientated and can afford just about anything. But he also ends up with Nervesa, he strongly believes that the price-quality proportion is in balance.' Not average but affluent. Is this the target group for the better made-to-measure suit? 'Well the relatively small investment recovers the costs when you know how good it feels to wear a perfectly fitting suit!'
